Nova Scotia Road Trip

On By Suzanne@PictureRetirementIn photography, retirement, road trips, travel

Our time in Nova Scotia was part of a month-long road trip from Florida, encompassing visits to New York, Boston, and Vermont. This post will only cover the twelve days we spent in Nova Scotia, which was the central purpose of the trip. We entered Nova Scotia from St. John, New Brunswick by car, but there is a Ferry available from St. John to Digby if you’d like to begin your journey there. Or, if you are arriving from Maine, catch the ferry from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth.

Visiting Nova Scotia fulfilled a bucket list item we have been thinking about for several years. In terms of natural beauty, it was everything we had imagined – rugged coastlines and dramatic cliffs, thick highland forests, rolling hills featuring fertile farmlands, acres of apple orchards and corn fields, hidden coves, and beaches that range from sandy to rocky.

Small-town charm is abundant here and the people are industrious, kind, and hard-working. Pictou proudly displays its Scottish shipbuilding heritage, while Lunnenbourg lights up the waterfront with colorful homes and businesses, and Mahone Bay makes everyone smile with its annual Scarecrow Festival. Every town has a famous church, a famous lighthouse, an eatery, or a botanical garden that captures your attention. History is alive at Fortress Louisbourg, and nature displays her gifts in unimaginable ways along the Cabot Cove Trail. This place is a photographer’s dream, a nature lover’s paradise, and a historian’s motherload with roots extending thousands of years and European settlements as early as the 1500s.

The photos below represent highlights and do not fully convey our experience in Nova Scotia. Each day was filled with skyline drives, valleys rich with crops, fresh (off the boat) seafood, hiking trails, walks on the most extraordinary beaches, UNESCO World Heritage sites, witnessing the most unbelievable low and high tide conditions, and feeling like we were on top of the world. I’m a decent photographer, but how a place makes you feel is hard to capture in a photograph.

Route Highlights

We began our discovery of Nova Scotia in St. John, New Brunswick by visiting the Bay of Fundy en route to Halifax. You can see the Bay of Fundy from many points in Nova Scotia, but we wanted to see the famous Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park. This park is a geological marvel with dramatic cliffs, rock formations, chocolate sand, and extreme tidal ranges. We arrived at low tide and were able to walk among these giants. Hint, be prepared to get muddy.

We used several planning guides and helpful hints from fellow bloggers to develop an itinerary for our twelve days in the region. In retrospect, we would have added to some stays and subtracted or eliminated others, but overall, we were pleased with the plan. Overnight stays included Halifax (2), Bridgewater (2) Yarmouth (1), Wolfville (2) Pictou (1), and Baddeck (4). Multiple destinations enabled us to minimize our daily driving time and easily access many points of interest on our list.

Exploring Nova Scotia

Halifax was our base to explore nearby points of interest including Peggy’s Cove and Lunnenbourg. Our time here was impacted by heavy rains, and although we regret not visiting the Halifax waterfront, that exploration day got nixed from the itinerary due to time constraints. We arrived at Peggy’s Cove during a light drizzle, and gratefully, it kept the crowds away. This lighthouse is a sight to behold in any weather.

Lunnenbourg was equally a delight, and we spent a few hours exploring shops, walking the waterfront, and visiting a brewery.

From Lunnenbourg we continued to Blue Rocks Beach where I shot some of my favorite photos. Lunch at ‘Oh My Cod’, in Mahone Bay was a favorite.

Lobster Mac and Cheese and Fish-n-Chips made with fresh Cod

From our stay in Bridgewater, we walked a section of the Centennial Trail, (5 miles) drove on the sand at Crescent Beach, and visited LaHave Island.

The Forchu Lighthouse Museum (in Cape Forchu) was the highlight of our time in Yarmouth. The town is working class, with fisheries and agriculture being the base of its economy. Their focus is not on tourism, (refreshing) and it was a great one-night stop. The location was perfect for visiting the lighthouse and nearby Digby for a plate of their famous deep-fried scallops. It was possible to climb the 77 steps to the lantern room of Forchu Lighthouse, but it was a beautiful sunny day and we opted to play on the rocks.

Continuing our drive from Yarmouth to Wolfville, we stopped at Annapolis Royal Gardens and Gilbert’s Cove Lighthouse. Bear River’s scenic drive is not to be missed.

Many lighthouses in Nova Scotia have been decommissioned and offered for sale. The Bear River lighthouse at Smith’s Cove was purchased by the community and refurbished by volunteers. We arrived on a day when volunteers were clearing and planting new gardens. They were passionate and enthusiastic about their work and happy to spend time sharing their story with us. Apparently, this is a common practice among Nova Scotia communities. We did see a few lighthouses under renovation, and more needing renovation. Hopefully, the trend continues to save these national treasures and make them available to the public.

Annapolis Royal Gardens
Annapolis Royal Gardens

Annapolis Royal Gardens is a beautifully maintained botanical garden, featuring unique designs and a replica of an authentic Acadian dwelling from the 1600s. For a full calendar of events, click here.

Bear River at low tide

Our two-night stay in Wolfville was just right for scenic drives through farmlands, wine tasting, and relaxing at the comfortable Stella Rose B&B. Noticing a sign that read ‘garden open,’ we turned down a beautifully maintained entry to find ourselves at a private home. Hmmm…of course I got out to explore and ask questions to the gentleman I noticed at the side of the property. He informed me that although this is a private residence, the owners would like the public to enjoy their garden. Did I mention how nice people are in Nova Scotia? Other highlights included wine tasting at Planters Ridge Winery and eating whole steamed lobster at Halls Harbor.

We chose Baddeck to spend four nights because of its proximity to the Cabot Trail and Cape Breton. The Cabot Trail is a four-hour drive if you do it without stopping. We turned it into an eight-hour excursion. The road is in good condition and has guardrails, which is important to me. There are lots of safe, scenic overlooks all along the way. Part of the drive cuts through the Highlands National Park, a welcome break to the focus of coastal driving.

The Fortress of Louisbourg is a living history museum representing an 18th-century French garrison. We thoroughly enjoyed spending a couple of hours here and were just in time to witness a musket-firing demonstration. For a full schedule of events and to learn how you may stay overnight, visit their website here.

We spent the second half of our day sightseeing in the area and visiting the Louisbourg lighthouse and beach. Arriving at high tide enhanced the experience, with lots of wave action against the rocky cliffs. The lighthouse was beautiful, and in great condition, but the cliffs stole the show on this day.

Nova Scotia is one of the most visitor-accommodating destinations we have ever visited. We felt ‘welcome’ here. With green spaces, park benches, and Adrondike chairs in every available space, the environment invites you to linger longer, breathe deeper, and take notice of your surroundings. Accommodations are casual, from lodges and B&Bs to yurts. It often seemed we’d stepped back in time – when things were simpler, unhurried, carefree. People were friendly, helpful, and eager to share information. They drive pickup trucks, drink beer with their buddies at places like Big Spruce Brewery, and go home to the most unassuming shack with a dynamite view. It seems idyllic until I think of winter.

49 thoughts on “Nova Scotia Road Trip”

  1. Your vacation looks wonderful! I love how you saw so much and were able to take interesting photos along the way. The natural muted shades of gray appeal to me. I’d enjoy the cool weather, but like you said it’d be great until winter.

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  5. Suzanne,

    What a lovely adventure, and you had me wishing for more! We hope to visit about this time next year, so I may be in touch for recommendations. I think every lighthouse is worth saving, so I’m thrilled to see townspeople restore their own. Gardens, great food, and grand vistas made for a super post. Thanks for sharing. Joe

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    1. Joe, thanks. There was a lot more, but I didn’t want to bore everyone by being overly indulgent. I got a lot of good info from Laurel and Eric’s blog, (they are the real experts) so between the two of us we will provide all the information you need.

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  6. Suzanne, I’m glad you had a wonderful road trip and a great time in Nova Scotia. I enjoyed your post and gorgeous photos. They brought back memories of my visits to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. You did a great job summarizing your trip with related photos. Thank you for sharing.

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      1. This type of post is challenging to write for the reason you mentioned. After I come home from a trip and have experienced so much, I often ponder how to write it well in one post. You did a fabulous job.

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  7. After reading The Shipping News (highly recommended if you haven’t read it) set in Newfoundland, and another novel that I can’t remember the name of that takes place at the time of the giant explosion in the port of Halifax, I’ve been interested with that part of the world. Now, your pictures and descriptions make me want to plan a future road trip there… soon. Would you recommend the time of year you visited?

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    1. Hi Janis, I’ll put it on my BTR list. The entire provence has a long history of shipping, ship building, fishing, etc. The ports are all alive with activity and really interesting to see. I loved being there in Fall weather, (45 – 67) but the colors were muted because of lack of rain.

      I think late July/early September would be ideal. Nobody does gardens like Canada, and I imagine those would be at their peak in late summer. Also, sitting outside at wineries (Wolfville) and eateries would be more comfortable in warmer temperatures. Summer is definitely their ‘season’, so crowds might be an issue. Whenever you go, you will love it.

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  9. Hi Suzanne – I always love the photos you share from your travels – they always shine with how much you both enjoy yourselves, and also the fact that you have a good eye for a great photo makes all the difference. I’d heard of Prince Edward Island because of Anne of Green Gables – but knew nothing about Nova Scotia – so I feel a little less ignorant now. 🙂

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    1. Leanne, you are not alone. Most people visit NewFoundland and tend to put Nova Scotia on the back burner. We did, for a very long time. I think we felt that if we’d seen NewFoundland, Nova Scotia would be more of the same – not so.

      I constantly found myself saying, ‘I could live here.’ I loved the vibe of the place and it felt comfortable. Just can’t get past what winter must be like – icy roads, stiff cold winds, chopping fire wood.

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  10. I’ve always thought I would like Nova Scotia and your photos and account of your trip address to that impression. I love your coastal shots in particular, and those rocks look amazing!

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    1. Sarah, the rocks were amazing but I did get a little carried away with the photos. Peggy’s Cove and Louisbourg Lighthouse were my favorites for playtime, quiet time and getting a little exercise. There is a cliff path at Louisbourg Lighthouse, but it was closed the day we were there. I so wanted to explore that path. Next time.

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  11. Suzanne – I really enjoyed reading this and your great photos. We visited Halifax and Sydney on a cruise last year. You’re providing me lots of inspiration for leisurely trips like this when we both retire next year! This was probably also a welcome respite from the oppressive FL summer weather…

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  12. Hi MK, we chose September/October purposfully for the reason you stated – escape the oppressive FL heat! And, to see the leaves changing along the way. We accomplished both of those with this trip. Leisurely, is the best word to describe exploring Nova Scotia. A cruise is a great way to whet your appetite for more. Thanks for stopping by. I always enjoy new visitors!

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  16. Wow, Suzanne, your trip looks amazing! We would love to visit that entire area including PEI (especially now that I finally read Anne of Green Gables). Your images are wonderful and it’s great to read about the area’s welcoming spirit! I adore those lighthouses! I’m keeping your post so we can make future plans.

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    1. Hi Terri, a combined visit is very possible, with easy access from PEI to Nova Scotia. We visited PEI several years ago and took the Anne of Green Gables tour, so we didn’t repeat our steps this time.

      Our twelve days in Nova Scotia was not enough, and there were places we wanted to linger. I’d suggest visiting in late August and early September to take advantage of all the water activities there. It was a bit chilly in mid-September – great for our daily hikes.

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  17. Wow…such a gorgeous road trip. I love places where the scenery and nature takes centre stage. You have captured it well with your beautiful photos.
    It is also great to have all your tips for someone who would like to recreate your trip.
    Sent from my iPhone

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  19. Hi Suzanne, we finally have our internet restored after Hurricane Helene and I’m catching up with my blogging friends. I’m so glad that you enjoyed your time in Nova Scotia! We loved our time there, too—it remains one of the highlights of our years of RV travel. Your photographs are beautiful and really capture the essence of the province. I fantasized about living there, but I think the winters would be a deal breaker for this native Florida girl, LOL. North Carolina is cold enough for me! 🙂

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  20. Laurel, I too fantasized abut living there, but can’t imagine how harsh the winters must be. It dropped into the 40s a couple of days while we were there and the wind was biting cold.

    Glad you are finally reconnected to the world. What would we do without internet? I hope things are getting back to normal for everyone in your area too. Florida is still cleaning up Milton. Thanks for stopping by. I’m sure you have a long list of ‘catch up’ visits. Take care.

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