Bavaria, Germany was a much-anticipated finale to a month-long travel itinerary designed with leisure in mind. To say we got our fairytale ending to an already wonderful trip would be an understatement.

We traveled here during the last week in July and concentrated our time in Southern Germany, near Salzburg, Austria, and the Bavarian Alps. Mild temperatures were a welcome change to what we had recently experienced in Greece and Croatia. The Kempinski Hotel in Berchtesgaden, Germany was home for our five-night visit. Staying in Munich or Salzburg is a good option, but, we wanted the full Alpine experience. Waking on a misty morning, atop a beautiful mountain surrounded by pristine lakes, driving through rolling hills and lush green valleys, windows down – breathing fresh, clean air.

You’ll notice that each of the headings below ends in SEE. That’s because See means lake in German. The names get a little confusing after a day or two, but each lake has a distinctive personality making them all memorable. With over 200 lakes in Bavaria, seven got our full attention.

Tegernsee

We picked up a rental car at the Munich airport and set the GPS for Tegernsee with a final destination of Berchtesgaden, two hours away.

Tegernsee, a beautiful resort town about one hour from Munich, is an easy highway drive. We pulled into the first parking lot available, downloaded the parking app, and paid the toll. From our parked car, we could see the visitor’s center, a large hotel, with a Biergarten out front, and the lake, surrounded by Tegernsee mountains, which were impressive to us but turned out to be one of the smallest ranges we would see during the next few days. Welcome to the Bavarian Alps was literally written all over this scene.

We walked toward the lake and followed a sidewalk along the waterfront where young families spread picnics, and played in the azure waters of Tegernsee. Coffee shops and ice cream stands beckoned passersby along the path. Sailboats and kyacks glided gracefully in the soft breeze. After a while, we cut through an opening under the trees, exiting to the main street, lined with Quintessential German establishments, geranium-filled window boxes, and manicured beds of blooming hydrangea.

Feeling hungry, we continued along the main street, circling back to the Biergarten we’d noticed earlier. We were surprised and pleased at the lack of international tourists and enjoyed drinking beer with the locals, learning a few German words and a little about the area. According to our new friends, Tegernsee is a popular weekend getaway for city dwellers. They’d just arrived via bus and planned to stay two nights.

After a lunch of local dishes that set the tone for more to come, (Wienerschnitzel, for Malcolm, sausage, and sauerkraut, for me we took another short walk and bid lebe wohl to Tegernsee.

We both agree that we could easily spend a week or more here. Ferries that perform the duties of both taxi and tour boat dart the lake routinely, a Cable car ride with spectacular views, public transportation, water activities, accommodations, and restaurants make this an ideal summer vacation spot.

Konigsee and Obersee

These two lakes are located fifteen minutes from the Kempinski and are inside the Berchtesgaden National Park, near the Austrian border. We got an early start and allotted a full day here since we wanted to take the electric boat tour, including stops at St. Bartholomew’s Church and Salet. We purchased our tickets and were on the boat within minutes of parking. Tours are conducted in German only, and we thought it a bit crass when our guide requested tips – in perfect English. Other than that slight irritant, the day was perfect.

We stayed on the boat until it reached Salet, departed, and walked the fifteen-minute trail to Obersee and the famous boathouse. This location and St. Bartholomew’s Church are among the most Instagramed scenes in Bavaria. The juxtaposition of the weathered boathouse, against the emerald lake, and majestic mountain is breathtaking. Unfortunately, I could not get the iconic photo I’d seen many times on the Internet, but the one I got from the opposite side makes me happy. The longer I waited, the bigger the group grew. The boathouse location is also popular for swimming, picnicking, and relaxing before or after the 5-mile hike that loops back to the ferry stop.

We took a return boat, stopping at St. Bartholomew’s Church, where we viewed the inside of the Roman Catholic church, which was austere by most standards. It seemed fitting for the patron saint of farmers and dairymen.

Outside the church is a Biergarten with seating under shade trees, views of the mighty Watzmann jutting skyward in all its glory, the lake, and the gentle glide of electric boats and rowers. This was the perfect atmosphere to enjoy a late lunch and a beer before returning to the ‘commercial’ side of the lake. Shops we’d passed on our way to the ticket stand earlier in the morning were now in full swing – ice cream parlors, restaurants, trinket shops – filled with returning passengers and afternoon arrivals.

An all-access ticket costs about $25 US and allows visits to Salet (path to Obersee) and St. Bartholomew’s Church. Boats arrive frequently with the last one leaving Salet around 5:45 to return passengers to the parking lot. Parking for the day was $6.

Hallstattersee

Hallstatt, Austria was a one-hour drive from our hotel. We enjoyed a scenic drive, through farmlands and small villages. Fast-moving streams flanked the road and induced a pull-over photo opp much too often, ‘onion domes’ atop Catholic churches signaled we were entering a new village. Window boxes on neatly maintained homes overflowed with color. This drive was typical in the region and each day we looked forward to lush rolling hills, granite mountains rising high above the towns, and the first sighting of each lake.

Hallstatt was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The central focus here, and the reason we came is the famed village which grew from the shores of Hallstattersee. Quaint homes, lush gardens, and water so clear you’re tempted to scoop up a handful and drink. This place is idyllic.

After parking, we bypassed the visitor’s center, the funicular, and the salt mine tours and headed straight into the village. With no lines and no waiting, we approached a boat captain, paid 15 euros each, and set off on a thirty-minute lake tour. Later, we walked through the town and found a nice cafe where we shared a piece of apple strudel. It was a lovely, stress-free day as there seemed to be fewer tourists than we anticipated, and the weather was ideal with overcast skies and cooler temperatures. Note: arrive early as convenient parking lots fill up quickly. Staying overnight here is an option, but we suggest Hallstatt as a relaxing day trip from Salzburg, Munich, or Berchtesgaden.

Traunsee

This lake was a bonus we treated ourselves to after visiting Hallstatt. Just short of a drive-by visit, we found a convenient parking spot, did a quick internet search, and found the Schloss Ort, an Austrian castle founded in 1080. The Schloss, which sits on an island in the Trunsee is accessed by a footbridge. Should it come up in your next game of Trivia, a Schloss is a castle converted to a residence after losing its defensive significance.

Today the castle is used as a study center for the Federal Ministry of Land and Forestry and is open to the public. We appreciated the design elements and unique setting. Parking was available up close, but we parked near the city center and walked to the castle.

Hintersee

Hintersee was a very scenic ten-mile drive from our hotel. We hadn’t planned to visit here, but with rain in the forecast and an uncertainty of driving conditions, we decided not to venture far from the hotel. As it happens, this became one of my favorite days in Germany. We packed my camera in a waterproof bag and grabbed our rain gear, just in case.

This is one of the smallest lakes in the area and is surrounded by the Berchtesgaden mountain range. We noticed a couple of small hotels, a cafe, and a boat rental facility, but for the most part, this lake evokes feelings of being deep in a Bavarian forest. The walking/hiking path around the lake was about 3 miles. We took our time, strolling and taking photographs reaching the halfway point just as the rain came. We ducked under a canopy of trees for shelter and eventually walked back, soaked from knees to toes. Stopping at the little cafe we’d noticed at the beginning of the path, we waited out the downpour with a cup of coffee and another piece of apple strudel.

This lake has inspired painters, photographers, and movie-makers – although my photos do not do justice to the setting, I hope I have captured a little of Hintersee’s magic.

So what was so impressive about this day? For me, it was the simplicity and spontaneity of it. The joy of stumbling upon a place so serene and beautiful, the soul feels instantly at peace.

Chiemsee

We planned a full day for this outing as Chiemsee is just under two hours from our hotel. We had researched the lake extensively and knew it would be worth the drive. The islands of Chiemsee range from regal to artsy and we enjoyed our time there.

We purchased the ‘grand’ ticket which allowed ferry hopping to all the islands. Island-specific tickets are also available. Our motivation for visiting Chiemsee was to tour Herrenchiemsee Royal Palace, another of King Ludwig II’s creations. The palace is a copy of Versailles and was built as a tribute to King Louis XIV of France, whom Ludwig admired. We were not allowed to take pictures inside the palace, but from what I recall of Versailles, it is remarkably similar. The left and right wings were never completed and many rooms remain unfurnished. The rooms we were allowed to tour were stunning. The grounds were exquisite, with ornate fountains and tidy flower beds. Our docent-guided tour in English was informative and we never felt rushed. In addition to the ferry fee, we paid 10 euros for a ‘senior’ ticket for the palace tour. Note: The walk from the pier to the palace is approximately twenty minutes. Horse and buggy transportation is available at an additional charge.

We hopped the ferry to Fraueninsel where we explored the small, artsy island and enjoyed lunch with a view.

Some places speak volumes in hushed tones – this was one such destination.

Next time I will share some thoughts and photos from the cruise portion of this trip, and eventually, I will tell you about Lugano, Switzerland – another ‘must return to’ destination.